Portages of early Auckland - to and from the
Waitemata Harbour:
The hub of an ancient communications network

By
Brian Hooker

This article was first published (with the diagram only) in the Auckland-Waikato Historical Journal No. 70 (September 1997), pp. 39-40. Copyright is the property of Auckland Historical Society Inc. and the author.

ABSTRACT: This article reviews sixteen early portages in, or near to the present-day Auckland region, and provides some details of the communication system north and south of Auckland. Early Maori developed a communication network that took advantage of natural geographical features. The hub of the ancient communications system was the Waitemata Harbour and although Governor Hobson declared he was influenced in his selection of the site of Auckland by the great facility of internal water communications, it was in fact Hobson's recognition that Maori had used the network over a long period of time.

The author would like to point out that all the portages are easily identified today and encourages Aucklanders, and visitors, to inspect these interesting features.

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site indicates that the source is unknown. Any information on the origin would be appreciated so that I can correctly credit the item. E-mail address Page VXJ1.

The purpose of this article is to review some of the facts concerning early portages (toanga waka) in, near, and leading to the present-day Auckland region. There are around Te Tamakimakaurau forms a natural communications centre and without doubt the importance of the waterways network was recognised soon after the first Māori settlers arrived in New Zealand.

The early Tamaki lsthmus has been described as a natural Venice where canoes must have been as numerous and as necessary as gondolas (Fisher, 1946, 49-57).

Not long after he landed in New Zealand, at the Bay of Islands, early in 1840, Governor William Hobson inspected the Waitemata area, and approved a site for the proposed capital and settlement of Auckland. In a dispatch from Government House, Russell, dated 15 October 1840, to the Secretary of State for Colonies, Lord John Russell, Hobson included the following two main reasons for his choice: ... I have been influenced ... first, by its central position, secondly by the great facility of internal water communications by the Kaipara and its branches to the northward; and the Manakao [Manukau] and Waikato to the southward; (Holloway, 1962, 133).

It was the missionary Henry Williams (1782-1867),

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Henry Wlliams.

who directed Hobson's attention to the Waitemata region as a suitable site for the new capital; Williams had explored in the area in the early 1830s (see Carlton, 1877, 167-74).

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Lord John Russell - British Colonial Secretary at the time of the founding of New Zealand in 1840.

Before reviewing the list of portages it will be helpful
to mention briefly the ancient travelling routes in general use in, and leading to Te Tamakimakaurau. Within the central part of the isthmus, land tracks formed an important part of the communications network. Many of these tracks, which extended mainly along the tops of ridges, developed into roads after the start of European settlement. Parts of present-day St Stephens Avenue, Parnell Road, Manukau Road, and Remuera Road, are examples.

Main passages for north-south traffic existed on both sides of the isthmus. The main inland communications system for the northern portion of the North Island was determined by natural features in the west. From the Waikato River, the short Waiuku portage brought voyagers to the Manukau Harbour: and once Te Whau and the Ngongitepata portages were crossed, voyagers were faced with a clear run north into the northern Wairoa River.

The second important northern passage ran parallel to the eastern shoreline of the isthmus.

People living in the Waikato and Waiuku districts, gained access to the western side of the Hauraki Gulf, via the Manukau Harbour and by using any one of three portages across the narrow part of the isthmus. All three portages terminated at the Tamaki River. After voyaging down the Tamaki River, northbound voyagers not wanting to cross to the west, proceeded north off the east coast, hugging the land, and portaging again across the Whangaparaoa Peninsula.

People living on or near the banks of the Waihou, Waitoa, and Piako Rivers, or near the coasts on both sides of the Hauraki Gulf, joined the northern waterways system via Tamaki Strait.

Since the eastern route off the coast was vulnerable to adverse weather the river system was usually preferred, by north-south voyagers, to the sea passage. To join the main western artery, north of the Waitemata Harbour entrance, voyagers headed north. entered the mouth of the Weiti River, then portaged from the Weiti River to the Kaukapakapa River. and continued on to Kaipara Harbour.

The southern circular route, which included the Mangawara portage, enabled Waikato people to reach the Waitemata Harbour by carrying their canoes over only one portage if they desired or the circumstances were favourable.

William Colenso reported, in 1842, that Māori were able to voyage, aided by short portages, nearly five hundred kilometres by rivers and sheltered tidal waters from about Horahora on the Waikato River to around Tangowahine on the northern Wairoa River (Taylor, 1959, I-57). The Waikato, navigable by canoes for well over one hundred and sixty kilometres from about Horahora, is joined by the Waipa, eighty kilometres from its mouth. The Piako and Waihou were also each navigable for a considerable distance.

Since war panties could appear from many different directions, the network of waterways and port ages provided disadvantages as well as advantages for people living in and near Te Tamaki makaurau.

The portages across the central pan of Te Tamakimakaurau were dominated by three pa with a large population but the Whau portage was almost completely removed from any large settlements.

Some of the port ages reviewed below are delineated in early maps; a list of maps is provided in the appendix. The letters or letters following a subheading link the portage to the relevant map or maps. The number following a subheading relate to the portages shown in figure 1.

NB. The arrangement is north to south.

Mangapai Portage I
 

Samuel Marsden missionary and recorder of early Māori culture. An early engraving.

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This portage extended from the Northern Wairoa River to Whangarei Harbour. From Tangiteroria, the track reached to Maungakaramea and then to the canoe landing at the head of the Mangapai River. Samuel Marsden (1765-1838), who travelled over this route in 1820, mentions in his journal that Hongi Hika conveyed war canoes over the portage (see Elder, 1932).

Otamatea Portage 2 C

This portage extended between Kaiwaka and Mangawhai; the Otamatea River which flows into Kaipara Harbour joins the Kaiwaka River. William Colenso (1811-99) travelled over this route in 1841 and reported the greatest difficulty in finding his way through the thick vegetation (see Taylor, 1959).

Aotoetoe Portage 3

The Aotoetoe Portage also allowed direct east­west communication north of Te Tamakimakaurau. By far the longest and most difficult portage in the network, the Aotoetoe Portage was over fourteen kilometres in length. It was probably seldom used but it is mentioned by S. Percy Smith in his book Peopling of the North (Smith, 1896).

Weiti Portage 4

A portage between the Weiti and the Kaukapakapa Rivers effectively allowed direct communication north of Te Tamakimakaurau, from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea.

Waiau Portage 5
 

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William Colenso.

Probably a little-used portage but very useful at times the Waiau portage existed across a low lying pan of Whangaparaoa Peninsula. Hongi Hika probably carried his war canoes across this portage when he brought his great fleet south to Te Tamakimakaurau, in 1821.

Visitors to the locality will find the line of the old portage extending from the eastern end of Tindals Beach to Matakatia Bay. It is a straight­forward walk across the peninsula from one beach to the other; the length is only about seven hundred metres.

Probably another portage existed across the neck of Whangaparaoa Peninsula from Red Beach to the entrance to the Weiti River. A track is indicated in Smith Elder's map of the Auckland district, 1852 (see Appendix, Map D). Pongitepata (or Potoitoi) Portage (6)

Soon after they first settled in Te Tamakimakaurau Maori discovered that it was virtually impossible to travel by land near the eastern shoreline between Te Tamakimakaurau and the northern portion of the North lsland. Too many rivers and cliff faces blocked the way. An eastern passage by sea was possible but the preferred route to the north was via Kaipara Harbour.

Communication between the Waitemata and Kaipara Harbours, was effected by portaging canoes from near Rangitopuni to the Kellmu River, which joins the Kaipara River near Waimaukau. The Kaipara River flows into Kaipara Harbour near Parakai. Northbound voyagers then navigated across Kaipara Harbour, entered the mouth of the northern Wairoa River or one of the other rivers that flow into the Kaipara, and then continued their journey north or east. The large number of people who lived in the Kaipara area also found this portage useful; it provided straightforward access to the Manukau and Waitemata Harbours. Samuel Marsden was first escorted over this route in July 1820 (see Elder, 1932).

The Ngongitepata Portage 6

This portage is easily identified today. The eastern end at Riverhead is sign posted 'Kaipara Portage Road'. This area which was an important junction in early times is readily accessible and well worth inspecting.

Takapuna Portage 7

The Takapuna Portage which linked the Hauraki Gulf with Shoal Bay was the shortest of the portages in the Tamakimakaurau area.

Kukuwaka Portage 8

In early times a narrow neck of land existed between the northern end of Karitai ( Narrow Neck Beach) and Ngataringa Bay. Not strictly a portage, Kukuwaka allowed vessels to cross when tides were suitable. Kukuwaka means 'nip or scratch the canoe' (Graham, 1980, 16).

Whau Portage 9 C, D, E

The Whau Portage, slightly over three kilometres in length, connected the upper Waitemata Harbour with the northern part of Manukau Harbour. This low-lying portage was a very important link in the communications system. In early times a number of headland pa near the Manukau Harbour controlled the portage.

The Whau Portage is easily located today and is well worth a visit since the entire length is accessible. Modern Portage Road follows the old track from near Avondale Racecourse to Green Bay on the Manukau Harbour. Visitors to the Green Bay end will notice the steep rise from the beach to the road.

Karetu Portage 10

The Karetu Portage linked Anns Creek with Karetu, south of Panmure Basin. The name Karetu is now unknown in the area and it is difficult to identify the exact eastern end of the portage. Present-day Bowden Road probably follows part of the eastern portion of the old track.

Almost twice as long as Otahuhu Portage, Karetu Portage was not as elevated, Both the Karetu Portage and the Otahuhu Portage were within a few hundred metres of Otahuhu pa and about the same distance from Motukaroa and Ingoa-Kore; thus these portages were closely observed by nearby people.

Karetu, on the Tamaki River, must have been a bustling landing point until the 1840s; the location was proposed as the eastern terminal for the Karetu­Onehunga railway line planned by Felton Mathew. (See Brian Hooker, 1987 - Page NAU2 this web site - go via Contents above.)

Otahuhu portage (Te Tapotu o Tainui) 11 B, C,D,E

Twelve hundred metres south of the Karetu Portage the Otahuhu portage was the most important in the immediate Tamakimakaurau area because of its central position, length, and easy gradient, Slightly under one kilometre in length it was the shortest portage between the east and west coasts of New Zealand. And it was one of the main links in the communication network between the northern and central districts of the North Island.

Present-day Portage Road, Otahuhu, follows approximately the line of the old portage. The Manukau Harbour end is named Te Tapoi.

Tainui (i.e Tainui's arrival at the bottom of the portage slope). Also at the Manukau Harbour end is Ngarango e rua o Tainui. which is the name given jointly) to two small islands in Manukau Harbour, and according to legend. is said to be the final resting place of Tainui's skids which had been used to haul her across the portage.

In 1822, when he was on his way to seize the triple pa of Matakitaki on the Waipa River, Hongi Hika (c.1780-1828) dragged his canoes over the Otahuhu Portage to theManukau Harbour (see Holloway, 1962, 76-77). Henry Williams, who visited the Otahuhu area, in 1835, described the portage in his journal thus: " ... the appearance of a cart track which has been formed by a number of canoes which have been drawn over from time to time". (Carlton. 1877, 171).

Waokauri (or Pukaki) Portage 12 C, D

The third portage across the central isthmus existed to the south of Otahuhu. The Waokauri (or Pukaki) Portage often eliminated the need for voyagers to pass around Mangere Peninsula. In a present-day map this portage can be traced from the location of the Middlemore-Grange Golf Course, along Portage Road, Papatoetoe, to the eastern arm of Waokauri Creek.

Papakura Portage (13) C

This portage extended from the area of present-day Papakura town to the Wairoa River. Most likely Old Wairoa Road marked on modern maps is the track followed by the earlier portage.

Pokorua Portage 14

This portage provided direct access to the Tasman Sea from the Waiuku River via Lake Pokorua. The portage allowed canoes to leave Manukau Harbour, visit the Toheroa beds at Murawai. and re-enter the harbour without passing through the harbour entrance.

Waiuku (or Te Pai 0 Kaiwaka) Portage (15)

The Waiuku, or Te Pai 0 Kaiwaka Portage was an important path across the narrow stretch of land between the Waiuku River and the Awaroa Stream which is a tributary of the Waikato River. People reaching the Manukau Harbour and heading south. entered the Waiuku River, hauled their vessels over the portage to Purapura on the Awaroa Stream, and from there, gained access to the Waikato River and its tributaries, the Waipa. and the Mangawara, as well as tributaries of these rivers.

In 1842, Charles Terry. described the Waiuku Portage as 'a distance of 2,260 yards by the measurement of Captain W.E. Symonds, Deputy Surveyor-General' (Terry, 1842, 39). A.S. Thomson mentioned in 1859, warriors from the north were blocked from reaching the Waikato River by the damming of the Awaroa Stream (Thomson, 1859,469).

Mangawara Portage 16 D

This portage enabled canoes to be carried or dragged between Mangawara Stream, a tributary of the Waikato River, and the Piako River a distance of about six kilometres. The route can be traced on a modern road map of the south Auckland area, from Hoeotainui to Tahuna. Thus, in early times a war party, in canoes, heading south from Manukau Harbour could appear a few days later in the Hauraki Gulf or the Waitemata Harbour without having crossed the isthmus.

Probably it was the Mangawara Portage that Captain James Downie was referring to in the following legend in his 1821 chart 'Sketch of the River Thames.' (see Appendix, A).

The natives inhabiting the banks of the Wykanu [Waikato) (a large river which runs through the interior of his part of island and which falls into the sea on its western side in about 37° 10' S) Transport their canoes into the Thames [i.e. Hauraki Gulf], by navigating them up a stream which passes near the western extreme of this valley and afterwards falls into the Wykanu and from thence dragging them overland through the valley. □

NOTES

1. AA valuable contribution towards understanding the various facets of early Maori life in the Auckland area is provided in, H. J. R. Brown 'The prehistoric geography of the Auckland Isthmus' (unpublished thesis) Auckland University College, 1954.

2. For details of war expeditions which moved through or near the isthmus see the map and text in J.M. McEwen 'Maori tribal history' in, McLintock, ed., An Encyclopaedia of New Zealand.

REFERENCES CITED

CARLTON, H. 1871, 1877 The Life of Henry Williams, Archdeacon of Waimare, Upton & Co., Auckland - vol I; Wilson & Horton, Auckland - vol 2.

ELDER, J.R. 1932 The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden J 765-1838. Coulls. Somerville, Wilkie & A.H. Reed for Otago University, Dunedin.

FISHER, V.F. 1946: Some aspects of Maori life in Auckland (in) Auckland, Auckland City Council, Auckland.

GRAHAM, G. ed. by D.R. Simmons 1980 Maori Place names of Auckland, Auckland Institute & Museum, Auckland.

HOLLOWAY, K.M. I962 Maungarei-an Outline History of the Mr Wellington, Panmure and Tamaki Districts, Mt Wellington Borough Council, Auckland.

HOOKER, Brian 1987 An early Auckland transport plan rediscovered (in) Auckland­Waikato Historical Journal 0.50, 32-34.

McEWEN . J. M. 1966 Maori tribal history (in) McLintock, A.H. ed., I 966AI/ Encyclopaedia of New Zealand 3 vols R.E. Owen, Gov!. Printer, Wellington, v. 2: 468-70.

SMITH, S. P. 1897 Supplement to the Journal of the Polynesian Society ~ the Peopling of the North.

TAYLOR. N.M. ed, 1859, William Colenso, 1811­99 (in) Early Travellers in New Zealand Clarendon, Oxford.

TERRY, C. 1842 New Zealand, its Advantages and Prospects as a British Colony T. & W. Boone, London.

THOMSON , A.S. 1859 The Story of New Zealand John Murray, London.

APPENDIX

Early maps delineating portages (arranged in chronological order).

NB. The letter preceding each title links to sub­headings.

A. "A Sketch of the River Thames in New Zealand; Showing the Coast Explored In H.M.S.S. Coromandel. By J. Downie Junr." [1821 J Manuscript chart; pen and ink on paper 510x485 mm. Location: Hydrographic Office, Taunton, Somerset (A515 in Xu).

B. "Correspondence Respecting The Colony Of New Zealand. Map Of The Harbour Of Waitemata, New Zealand, and of the adjacent Country; shewing the situation of Auckland, The Capital of The Colony; And Also The Isthmus Which Separates The Waters Of The Frith Of Thames, On The Eastern. From Those of The Manukao. On The Western Coast. . .. Felton Mathew, Surv'·Gen 1.1841 ... John Arrowsmjth Lithog. 569 ... 1842" (lithograph 415 x 530 mm.) Published in, British Parliamentary, Paper, 1842, xxviii (569) p.115. A similar map is included as an inset in Arrowsmith's map "The Harbour And City of Auckland ... " Published in Terry, New Zealand, its Advantages, 1842.

C. "Map of New Zealand. The Islands of New Ulster. and the several Harbours being drawn 10 a large scale with depth of Sounding Ec. By S.c. Brees Late Principal Engineer & Surveyor, to the New Zealand Company. 1847. Drawn by H. Tiffin, C. Rickman & others. London, Published by John Williams & Co. Library of Arts 141 Strand. 15,h. day of May 1849." [with 1I insets:] [I] "Manukau" [2] "Wangaroa [i.e, Raglan] Harbour" [31 "Kawia" [i.e. Kawhia Harbour] [41 "Wai Te Mata Harbour" [5] "Tauranga Harbour" [vi] "Nelson Haven" [vi i] "Settlement of Nelson" [8] "Port Nicholson" [9] "Plan of Otago Harbour Middle Island New Zealand" [10] [untitled map of New Zealand] [untitled map of the world I 2 sheet - upper sheet 640 x 865 mm; lower sheet 580 x 865 mm. Published in: S.C. Brees, Pictorial Illustrations of New Zealand (London, 1847). Another issue was published in 1849.

D. "Map Auckland District" 1852 Ford & [George] Litho. Published by Smith, Elder & CO. and J. Williamson, Auckland. Published in [Wm. Swainson I, Auckland, the Capital of New Zealand (London: Smith. Elder & Co., in association with J. Williamson, Auckland, 1853).

E. "The Isthmus Of Auckland with its extinct Volcanoes, by Dr. Ferdinand von Hochstetter 1859. The Drawing & geographical Foundation compiled principally from the Surveys of Stokes.