NEW  ZEALAND
FOLK * SONG

W E B S I T E

Ruapehu E

Che Wilson  1917

Maori songs - Kiwi songs - Home

  Che's waiata reminds us why our volcanic wonderland is a cultural
  World Heritage Park, and here are some simple stories for tourists
 and children about those cultural treasures.
But these stories are
  my amateur view of them. This unedited
webpage is not intended
as a resource for university personnel.                                      
              

  
   DRAFT VERSION, Sept 1st 2024. Corrections, improvements or additions welcomed.
Please select all of the section you want modified, then copy it and paste it onto an    
email to me. Then mark any unwanted text in red, and your new text in green.      

Ideomatic English translation
Tū mai e koro, Rua-pehu e
He pātaka iringa kōrero1
Pare-te-tai-tonga

He whare toka e, he whare āhuru
Te pou-toko-manawa3 o te iwi.  x2

You're a wise old man standing tall, oh Exploding Pit.
You're a storehouse of narratives
1
the protective topknot of the Southern Sea
2
a rock-solid house, a sheltering house,
the upright supporting the heart
3 of the region's people x2

E rere, Te Waiū-o-Te-Ika4  
I Te Wai Ā-moe
5
ki Tangaroa e
he wai tōtā
Waiariki6 rangi e, waiariki nuku e
He wai tiehu te awa o Whangaehu7x2

Keep on flowing, oh Milk of Maui's Fish4
from the Sleeping Water
5 that is the crater lake
to Tangaroa's Tasman Sea.
Steaming water from a
a sky-high hot pool
6, with other hot pools all about it,
become waters splashing down the Whangaehu
7 river x2

He pou, te pou i poua8 ki runga
ki Rangi-tāmore-nui**
He pou te pou i poua ki raro
ki Papa-tāmore-nui**
Poua ki te whenua, poua ki te rangi e
Hei tūranga, hei wai ora e  x 2
Hei wai ora e, poua ki Ruapehu
9
AUE Hiii!


You're a boundary marker, the landmark raised up8
as a big pinnacle leading to the spirit world.

the boundary marker placed in the middle of the island,
as a
big pinnacle on the land
Planted upon the ground,
a pinnacle to the spirit world
A special place of living waters  x 2
Living waters planted at Ruapeh
u9

**The two tamore-nui references are personified spirits.
 I'm not sure how to translate or explain them.


1. Pātaka.
A storehouse. There are two types of pātaka:-

a. Pātaka kai, for storing food, a utilitarian pantry that rats, mice and cockroaches can't get into. Here is a pākata in Ohinemuta in the 1850s.

I spent my WW2 preschool years with my mum and grand-parents in the old Mangamahu hotel, built in the days of clay tracks, when several months supply of wheat, sugar, oatmeal and chook food was stored for winter in a rat-proof little house on stilts and called what I thought was the Pa Tucker, like the jolly swagman's tucker-bag. My Grandad's Maori vocab was quite different from that of today's Pakeha. No talk of iwi, mahi, or Fanga-ehu. He talked of getting his pikau and pōtae before repairing the 'puckerooed' konaki he needed to haul some pungas from near the W'ong'ehu river.

b. Pātaka whakairinga korero, a storehouse for hanging stories. This referred to the stories in the patterns carved in rafters and woven into wall panels of a wharepuni, but metaphorically it can be a geographic feature so-named to remind us of something historical, like the Whanganui estuary that reminded the Polynesian settlers of Fa'anui harbour back in Rangiatea. It could also be used to describe archived documents like Apirana Ngata's four volumes of moteatea, or a teller of traditional stories like "old Aunty Queenie down at the marae." Or this website!

Were there also Pataka taonga for the safekeeping of greenstone carvings, ariki's cloaks etc?


  This waiata refers to some of the stories stored on the mountain:
        it is a topknot giving status,
        it nourishes the island with minerals,
        it supports the heart of the people,
        it produces milky waters like whale's milk,
        it is a sleeping giant
        it provides healing waters
        it is a boundary marker
 

2. Paretaitetonga

The "protective topknot of the southern seas," is now just the topo-graphical name of Ruapehu's most eastern peak, but it is a far more poetic name for our mountain than "Exploding Hole."

Pare, koukou and tikitiki can all be used to describe a topknot.

The root meaning of pare is "ward off, protect". The lintel above the door of a wharepuni is also called a pare because those who pass under it are moving into the domain of Rongo, the god of peaceful activities.

The root meaning of kou is "a knob" => so koukou is a knobby topknot, i.e. it is a bun.

The root meaning of tikitiki is "going back and forth" => plaiting => so a tikitiki topknot would be plaited. Thus Maui Tikitiki's mother plaited her hair around him after his premature birth.

Topknots were a favourite among high ranking-Maori. Every person's head is tapu, and a person of higher status showed it by his specially dressed hair, with huia feathers, combs and oils being used to create various hairstyles.

 
 
Thus Ruapehu, decorated with its huia feather of rising smoke, displays the mana of the mountain, as well as the mana of the iwi who live beneath it and who protect the mountain's mana in return.

The Polynesian settlers who settled around Ruapehu were excellent agriculturalists, and they recognized that the periodic deposits of ash from the "topknot" provided the minerals and soil texture helping to maintain the fertility of the land. Even today, the root vegetables grown beneath the mountain give this region a special status.

Paretaitetonga is first mentioned in print in the New Zealander, May 1851, as a poetic refuge for the survivors of the 1822 Matakitaki massacre.




3
. Pou-toko-manawa

This is the post in the centre of a wharepuni meeting-house that keeps its ridgepole from buckling. But all Polynesian languages, including Te Reo Māori, are poetic, with layers of meaning: the wharepuni building represents the iwi's founder, and Pou-toko-manawa means "the pole supporting the heart of our founder."

Nearly all of us have someone who has given us support and space to move when the weight of the world was pressing down on us; mother, teacher, big sister, workmate.... (who was yours?) and Mt Ruapehu is a pole supporting us by giving us unique status and sheltering us from cyclonic winds. It provides us with fertile volcanic ash for our vegetable industry, with sharp winter weather to keep those veges chilled until wanted, a plentiful supply of fresh water, a tourist industry --- and millennial protection from Taupo's nuclear-force eruptions!



4. Te Waiū-o-te-Ika

"The Milk of Maui's Fish" is the Whangaehu/Mangawhero water catchment.

Children are told that 'Maui used his grandfather's jawbone to pull up a giant fish.'

This summarizes how Kupe was motivated with an adventurous 'Maui' spirit that implanted in him from years of having his adventurous grandfather Maru-tawiti jawboning on about how he could get through those cold rough seas far to the south to get up in the high latitudes where 100,000 whales and untold millions of seabirds migrated to every year: "There must be some huuuge motu up there, eh boy? But you'll need really strong high bowposts and sternposts to be your four taniwha to part the huge killer waves, you must take wind-and-waterproof korowai to fight the ice demons, and you must remember to leave Rarotonga in December when the prevailing sou-westerly headwinds change to nor-easterly tailwinds; OK boy?"

Eventually, as those nor-easterlies made world rotate under his vessel, Kupe and his crew spotted great long clouds of white fish-catching birds, millions of them. Then the mother of all whales, Te-Ika-o-Maui, came up over the horizon spouting volcanic 'water vapour' as she appeared. Whales give milk, and both the Whangaehu and Mangawhero rivers have milky-coloured headwaters (volcanic ash and precipitated silica respectively).

In 2018, the Government of New Zealand and the Ngāti Rangi iwi signed a deed of settlement providing for, among other things, a redress framework for the Whangaehu River, known as the Te Waiū-o-te-Ika Framework, with Te Waiū-o-te-Ika meaning the living and indivisible whole of the Whangaehu River and its tributaries, its physical elements (including minerals) and metaphysical elements, from Te Wai ā-Moe crater lake to the sea.


                                            Te Waiū-o-te-Ika
  = Ohakune.  How many other rivers and streams can you name?


 
5
. Te Wai Ā-moe

There was very little activity in Ruapehu’s crater lake in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The volcano seemed to be sleeping, and consequently the lake became a tourist attraction. The lake was filled by melting snow and summer rain, and these waters were heated by steam rising from the lake bed.


Renewed volcanic activity after 1965 made the lake more acidic and more unpredictable, resulting in small steam-blast eruptions in 1980, sending a high-density mix of very hot lava blocks, pumice, ash and volcanic gas across the lake's surface.


Then in 1995-96 it erupted massively and repeatedly. <

    


6
. Wai-ariki

Ariki were chiefs, leaders, those of high rank, and in districts where the were no geothermal pools, wai-ariki were baths prepared to ease the aches and pains of elderly ariki by heating rocks in a fire, then dropping the rocks into a small pool to heat the water. Titoki berries may have been added to scent the water, and kumarahou leaves to make it soapy.

(Can anyone give me more information about these therapeutic baths?)

But the hot water in Ruapehu's crater lake, and in the more accessible Ketetahi hot springs 800m lower down the mountain, provided chiefly hot baths for everyone in the iwi !



As well as some pleasantly warm waiariki in Ketetahi Springs, there are dozens of mudpools, boiling springs, and exploding steam fumaroles over an area of about 30 hectares, with an energy output of about 100 megawatts, so beware!

Ngatoro-i-Rangi

The tohunga/navigator of the Arawa voyaging walked south to the central North Island six centuries ago, re-naming land and then claiming it as he went, and in the course of his travels he ascended the mountains' central lofty cone in order to survey the surrounding country. He was  caught at its summit in a snowstorm, and he used these words in his prayer to his goddess 'sisters' who now resided on the very explosive Whaka-ari that we call White Island.

"E Kuiwai e! E Haungaroa e! Kua riro au i te tonga;
   Haria mai he ahi moku!"

"0 Kuiwai, 0 Haungaroa! I am being borne away by the south wind.
  Send some fires for me!"

From the words "riro" (borne away, seized) and "tonga" (south, wind) used in the land-hunter's cry came the name Tonga-riro.

As for the name Ngauruhoe, he had a slave girl named Uruhoe with him as a guide and porter, one of the Te Tini o Toi people who had arrived in an earlier migration, and he slew her on the mountain top as an offering to his goddess sisters, in order to give additional force to his prayer for fire. When fire did come from the crater, he threw her body into the inferno as thanks.

It would appear that his goddess sisters threw three 'baskets' of fire to him, with one basket falling short at the aptly named Kete-tahi, one going too far, to Ruapehu, and the last one hitting the sweet spot.

My question is where did the plural 'Nga' come from in front of Uruhoe?

I think the original lass had a rather explosive temperament, and a fiery spirit that would have become more and more fiery and explosive when they were trapped on the summit.

"I told you, I told you there was a storm coming; I told you!"

I korero ahau ki a koe kei te haere mai he tupuhi ; I korero ahau!

My guess is he killed her in the hope that all this fiery spirit would pass on to the mountain. And also to stop her yelling at him.

So was the volcano's original name Nga-ahi-o-Uruhoe: The fires of Uruhoe?

7. Whangaehu

Whanga-ehu = an estuary that is murky. A children's fable, He Potiki Mo Wharaurangi, tells them that this river, and others up and down the same coast, were given their descriptive names by Hau, an ariki who came on the Aotea voyaging waka and whose wife had run off with one of the Multitudes of Tio, descendants of the island's first settlers.

Children were helped to remember the Whangaehu river's name and location by being told that its muddy bottom was stirred up,
tiehutia, as Hau ran through it in pursuit of his wife's seducer.

Of course the river, and all the other rivers listed in this fable, would have been given their names a century earlier by
the Multitudes of Tio. This fable served as a geography lesson, as a warning to young wives not to go running off with handsome strangers, and as claim to ownership by Hau's descendants, and not by Te Tini o Tio, who were now slaves. Name-giving implies ownership.

8. He Pou e Poua ki Runga

"A boundary marker raised up high."  Ruapehu's peak is the highest of many tribal boundary markers on the volcanic plateau. I have described these overlapping boundary markers in detail in my History of Waiouru.

It is also a boundary marker linking the spiritual and physical worlds.




9. Hei wai ora e, poua ki Ruapehu

The living waters are stored up on the mountain as ice in glaciers, or huka-papa, "snow-that's-solid." In winter, fallen snow becomes compacted as ice at the top of a glacier, and in times of summer drought, the ice at the warmer bottom end melts and supplies water for drinking and irrigating crops.

Mangaehuehu glacier once extended down to about 1500m altitude, and was used to keep the birds that were harvested in autumn 'deep frozen' to supply food for winter.

But by the 1940s it had retreated to about 2000m and then to 2100m by the 1970s. By 2010 it was above the rock wall at 2250m, and was growing thinner.

Ruapehu is now hanging out a message of warning that we have burnt too many trees, driven too many vehicles too far, flown on too many tourist flights, generated too much coal-fired power, farmed too many cattle beasts and dairy cows, made too much cement, and consequently we are now losing our supplies of life-saving stored water.


1940s

     
1972

 
2010

A Spiritual Connection

I've had a typical Pakeha upbringing, and as Westerners, we Pakeha were educated to think only with the conscious fraction of our minds, or with our "left-brains," so generally we only think in a logical, factual, individualistic way.

To enable the soulless leaders of the British Empire to grow rich by killing other peoples and then asset-stripping their lands, we Pakeha have been programmed to ignore our intuitive connections associated with places, objects and past generations, symbolic associations that are generated by our collective unconscious, in our "right-brains."

But the connections are there. This is why those who have a holistic left-and-right brain upbringing are able to experience Ruapehu, Te Wai Āmoe,Te Waiū-o-te-ika, Rangi-tāmore-nui etc as living entities that care for local humans and must in turn be taken care of by them, a group united as one by their relationship with/to the great mountain.

Endnotes

1. In 2005, my niece, Ruth Basher, spent a year in the Ketetahi hut working on her Master's thesis, which was downgraded to 2nd-class honours because she 'wrongly' predicted that further eruptions were likely from the Te Maari crater, not far from the Ketetahi Springs. In 2012, hikers doing the Tongariro Crossing ran for their lives when Te Maari did indeed erupt suddenly, as caught in this video sequence. Perhaps Ruth was more tuned in to her unconscious mind than most MSc students.

2. I spent my childhood in Mangamahu, and when I was 12, Ruapehu sent extra wai-u down Te Awa o Whangaehu on Christmas morning
; wai-u that brought us many presents.
Presents
, alas, which had to be stored in the shed beside our house every day for several weeks, making the river a wai-kuku for  many in our village. Pillows of the Dead.

                                 John Archer    16/8/2024

Maori songs - Kiwi songs - Home
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